The Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) is one of the most famous pilgrimage routes in the world that ends in the city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. The Camino Francés, the most popular route to Santiago de Compostela, crosses Navarre. This route through Navarre is divided into 7 stages and is approximately 145 km long. The Camino has been walked by thousands of pilgrims for centuries. The main lesson of the Camino is that the journey is more important than the destination. Pilgrims from all over the world share a universal experience here: a desire for simplicity, a return to the core of what is important.
Crossing the Pyrenees and Roncesvalles
The Camino in Navarre begins with the crossing of the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. This crossing is difficult, with steep paths and a lot of elevation gain. However, the views are worth it. There are two paths from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles: the Ruta de Valcarlos (23.5 km) and the Ruta de Napoleón (24.3 km). In winter and in bad weather, it is forbidden to walk the Ruta de Napoleón. The Ruta de Valcarlos is safer and more accessible.
Roncesvalles is one of the most symbolic places of the Camino. The small village has an impressive Gothic church, the Colegiata of Roncesvalles, with the famous statue of the Virgin Mary made of wood and silver. A daily pilgrim mass is also held here, which provides a deeply spiritual moment before continuing the journey. A historical fact about Roncesvalles is that Charlemagne's army suffered a heavy defeat here in 778.
Roncesvalles also offers one of the iconic overnight accommodation options along the route: the inn of the Colegiata de Roncesvalles. Here pilgrims find peace in a place that has been welcoming pilgrims since the 12th century. This hostel does not have separate rooms, but several floors with dozens of beds. If you want a bit more privacy, we recommend the Hotel Roncesvalles .
Pamplona: a city of contrasts
After Roncesvalles the next destination is the capital of Navarre, Pamplona. It is common to divide this route into two stages: Roncesvalles-Zubiri (22 km) and Zubiri-Pamplona (21 km). For an overnight stay, our recommendation is the beautiful Txantxorena Hotel in the village of Zubiri.
Pamplona is a lively mix of old and new, with historic city gates, medieval churches and pleasant squares, but also modern buildings. The Cathedral of Santa Maria la Real is a must-see, with a beautiful Gothic façade and one of the best cloisters in Europe. Pamplona is known worldwide for the San Fermín festival and the running of the bulls, but the city offers much more. Pilgrims can enjoy the local gastronomy, such as pintxos (also known as tapas) and Navarrese wine, and experience the hospitality of the locals. For an overnight stay we recommend Hotel Europa, a good hotel in the center of Pamplona.
From Pamplona to Puente la Reina
After visiting the capital, the Camino continues to Puente la Reina (24 km). Puente la Reina is a charming medieval village with one of the most recognizable symbols of the Camino. This village owes its name to the famous bridge over the Arga River. In Spanish, Puente la Reina means Queen's Bridge.
Legend has it that this bridge was built in the 11th century by an anonymous queen. Its purpose was to facilitate the departure of pilgrims from the village.
In the past, Puente la Reina was also home to important military orders that were responsible for protecting pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. One of these orders was one of the most famous, the Knights Templar. They had their main temple a few kilometres from Puente la Reina. This was the temple of Santa Maria de Eunate.
The theory that has received the most attention about the origins of this temple is that it was built as a pilgrim hospital. This was built on behalf of Sancho VI, called the Wise, at the request of his wife.
In Eunate, there is an ancient ritual where pilgrims arriving at the site walk three times around the church before entering its center. They do this to absorb the unique energy of this place. Eunate, with its mysterious octagonal shape and location amidst the silence of the landscape, has been regarded for generations as a place of special power and profound significance.
Our recommendation for staying overnight in Puente la Reina is Albergue Jakue, which offers a delicious breakfast buffet.
Estella and Los Arcos
The last two stages in Navarre along the Camino Francés are Puente la Reina-Estella (22 km) and Estella-Los Arcos (21 km). Estella is a small medieval town with a lot of Romanesque architecture. Many pilgrims visit the church San Pedro de la Rua. This was built in the middle of the 13th century and dedicated to St. Andrew, the patron saint of Estella. To stay overnight in Estella we recommend the Hostal La Rúa , a simple but very hospitable hostel.
The last destination of the Camino in Navarre is Los Arcos. This village has always been an area where there was a lot of fighting, first between Muslims and Christians, and later between the Navarrese and the Castilians. On top of the hill there was a castle and a wall around the old center. Nowadays there is not much left to see of this busy past. Only three gates of the old wall, which give the village its name, remain as a reminder of that time. For an overnight stay is Pension Los Arcos a nice choice. It is simple but cozy, with a warm atmosphere that fits perfectly with the tranquility of the Camino.
After Los Arcos, pilgrims leave Navarre towards Logroño (28 km), in the province of La Rioja. Here the Camino ends in Navarre, with as final destination Santiago. The Camino de Santiago in Navarre leaves a lasting impression on every pilgrim thanks to the beautiful landscapes, the rich history visible in the ancient buildings, the delicious gastronomy and the warm hospitality of the locals.
